Wine Cap and Gingered 
Hash Brown Cakes

This recipe, adapted from Antonio Carluccio's treasure of a recipe book "The Complete Mushroom Book: The Quiet Hunt"  is basically a hash brown cake with sauteed Wine Cap spooned on top. Wine Caps harvested as buttons and quartered make for a crisp yet succulent topping; a vegetable in its own right. Wine Caps keep the dark red color and white solid stems, and the taste and texture are mildly reminiscent, at least in this recipe, of a tender bok choy. If you are in a hurry and don't want to mess with cutting potatoes into sticks, you could even make it with bagged frozen hash brown potatoes. Working with these beautiful mushrooms though, (not to mention new potatoes from your garden) is utterly satisfying in its own right.

Wine Cap and Gingered Hash Brown Cakes
Serves 4

For the mushrooms:

1 1/4 c quartered fresh Wine Cap mushrooms, preferably buttons
4 T olive oil or butter
large clove of garlic, minced
pinch of ground red pepper flakes
3 T chopped chives or green onion
salt and pepper to taste
3 T chopped cilantro or parsley for garnish

For the hash brown cakes:

2 1/4 lb Yukon Gold, red potatoes, or similar variety, cut in thin strips or grated on large hole of a box grater for a more homey presentation
salt
2 oz fresh peeled ginger, cut or grated as above
8 T oil , divided
Fresh lemon or lime to squeeze on cakes to taste

Method:

Clean, trim, quarter (or slice if you have more open caps) Winecaps. You can use the stem as long as it is tender and solid. Heat the olive oil or butter in a frying pan and add onion/chives, garlic, and red pepper flakes; saute until just tender. Add mushrooms and saute until mushrooms are cooked through. Season to taste and keep warm until potatoes are cooked.

For the cakes, pat sliced or grated potatoes and ginger with a towel and lightly salt. Divide in two portions. Heat half the oil in the fry pan and mound the mixture in the center and flatten to a pancake. Cook on a medium to medium low flame for about 10 minutes, flip onto a dinner plate, add the remaining oil and slide the uncooked side of the cake onto the hot pan, cooking another 10 minutes or until golden. Do the same with both potato portions. Lift the cakes with a spatula onto a serving platter and spoon mushroom mixture on top, garnishing with lemon or lime slices and cilantro.

To further impress yourself or anyone else who approaches with a fork, serve with a crisp chilled white wine or cold summer shandy beer. Perfect.

Wine Cap Stropharia...The Mighty
Mushroom Multi-tasker

by Mary Ellen

Say you’re at your local farm market this spring and you pass a vendor who is selling a mushroom you have never seen before. It is a handsome mushroom with a port red cap color and ivory colored stem. You ask the vendors to tell you about it. The vendor, with an excited gleam in her eye, says that the mushrooms are called Wine Caps and they grow on their farm, outdoors on wood chips or sawdust, and not in caves or special grow rooms. Its texture is crunchy, with a mild taste. It is best harvested in the button stage and is one of the very best mushrooms to pickle. You buy some and take them home. Sautéed and scattered across a green salad, you are quite happy with your local market and the innovative growers who supply you with such cool new products.

 A handful of perfect Wine Caps prepped for market (photo courtesy of Pierre-Luc Choquette, Quebec)

What the vendor may not tell you is that besides being a good culinary mushroom, it has other useful qualities that we are just now learning about. Wine Cap Stropharia (Stropharia rugosa annulata) is native to North America and is being trialed for a whole bunch of uses, not just for food. Most of us plant Wine Caps outdoors for food in big beds of wood chips, straw or a combination of the two. Other people are looking at Wine Cap for something extra. For example, in agricultural regions with livestock manure run-off problems, it can be grown in straw- and wood chip-filled burlap sacks. The sacks are tucked into watercourses, and with Wine Cap’s powerful mycelium-knitted net, screen out bacteria. 

Wine cap-myceliated straw mixed with wood chips and stuffed into burlap sacks makes for a mycofliter in areas of agricultural run-off. (Photo from Mino De Angelis) For more on this project, take a look at “Using Mushroom Mycelium to Filter Bacteria from EBMUD Watersheds by Co-Renewal” at www.corenewalproject.org

Plenty of mushrooms generated from the mycofilter bags 

(Photo courtesy Mino De Angelis) 

Wine Cap is also being tested as a disease-suppressing agent by mulching myceliated straw in with potatoes and tomatoes to thwart Phytopthera and Alternaria. Grape growers are testing Wine cap mycelium for disease suppression under grape vines, not to mention the ability for the mycelium to capture nematodes. Most usefully, it digests straw and woody litter within a summer or two, quickly converting large thick mats of organic material high in carbon to a fungal rich layer of organic matter and humus.

Phoebe is layering straw and wood chips with wine cap spawn, with straw and wood chips 
under grape vines and in an asparagus bed.

Planting Wine Caps

You can plant Wine Cap any time from early spring through fall; it’s best to inoculate when nighttime temperatures are above freezing and when daytime temperatures are below 95 degrees (F). However, depending on your location, you can plant almost any time. Wine Caps grow on a wide range of carbon-rich materials but there are a few important things to consider:

In general, a large range of different particle sizes of substrates works best. We recommend layers of moistened straw with wood chips as the straw has more air space and the wood chips are more dense, combining the best of both worlds: fast spawn colonization (provided by the straw) and longevity (thanks to the dense wood chips). In general, straw beds last 1-2 seasons and wood chip beds 2-4, depending on the size of chip, density and type. Hardwood chips are preferred, though conifer chips work well if composted for a few years.

Abundant harvest from 6 year old pine chips. (Photo courtesy of Van Bialon, Emily, MN)

Abundant harvest from 6 year old pine chips. (Photo courtesy of Van Bialon, Emily, MN)

Myceliated wood chips a month after planting.

Myceliated wood chips a month after planting.

While late season mushrooms provide the best quality because of the cooler nights and high humidity, lots of fruiting can also be had in the spring. Just be aware that the mushrooms can look a little different depending on variable spring weather. For example, almost silvery caps to lots of cracking. Check out the photos below with some classic markers: knobby ring on the stem, charcoal colored gills (milky grey on young mushrooms), and straight stem with white "rootlets".

These specimens show the classic white stem, pale red cap and broken ring on the stem. 

Cap color heightens with humidity.

Spring harvested Wine Cap; note the variable appearance of the caps.

While Wine Caps are not highly flavored, the appearance and texture more than makes up for it. It can be planted throughout the growing season on a huge range of substrates; one of the best sources is from your municipality's waste yard where they grind up loads of branches, and it's usually free for the taking! Harvesting these garnet colored jewels is a delight and can be experienced by almost anyone with a yard.

Looking for a recipe to try with your Wine Cap mushrooms? Try Wine Cap and Gingered Hash Brown Cakes, its delicious!

Little Wine Cap buttons, cleaned with a pastry brush, can be braised whole with spring
vegetables for a special meal.

Morel mania!

Morels or Morchella species are an ancient genus of mushrooms indigenous to every almost every continent. In North America morels litter the ground of western forests, disguising themselves as the fallen pine cones of the fir trees they form their mycorrhizal relationships with, and in the southern United States these “hickory chickens” rest under the dancing leaves of ash and elms trees in the early spring.  South American morels are shaded by blue gum trees, and Asian countries provide a bounty of deciduous hardwood trees under which numerous morel varieties make their home. Even Australia has two native Morchella species. Despite Morchella species’ ancient phylogeny and wide spread habitation, much of the mushroom world is in an up roar over the classification of the tasty treats.

White morel (pic credits: Michigan Mushroom Hunters Club)

When comparing one Morchella variety to another, it can be next to impossible to determine if the two are biologically distinct. For this reason the phylogenetic tree of morels varies from having only three to well over a hundred branches representing individual species. Luckily, the confusion in the scientific world concerning the taxonomy for Morchella species has no effect on morel’s delicious gourmet qualities. Morel mushrooms have a unique sponge like structure consisting of hundreds of hollow cups that form its signature honey comb shape and indicate its classification in the Ascomycota division of fungi.

Yellow morels (generally referring to Morchella esculenta) are native to Europe, and are one of the oldest known choice edible mushrooms (its Latin name esculenta means “edible”). The honey combs of this mushroom range from pale cream to a vibrant yellow color often with darker pits. This variety of morel has a creamy, earthy flavor, which ensures it will be a crowd-pleaser for any occasion. Dress up the rich creaminess of this mushroom by frying it in batter or serving it in a French sauce. Play to the deep mineral components this mushroom possesses by adding it to a hearty soup. No matter how this morel is prepared everyone will leave the dinner table begging for more.

Morchella esculenta 

White morels or Morchella delicosa have a much more oval and squat appearance than their cousin, the yellow morels. Colors for this mushroom range from buttery white to walnut brown and light grey with creamy white pits. The Latin name of this variety of morels is no exaggeration; this is a delicious mushroom! Its velvety texture and umami flavor are a staple in high end French cuisine, and its North American cousins (believed to be most closely related to this species) are causing a culinary revolution in the North-Western United States. The demand is on this rise for this species, and it is up to the cultivators to supply this delicious mushroom to the masses.

Morchella deliciosa 

The black morel or Morchella elata belongs to the third group of morel mushrooms, and it is characterized by its dark brown or charred black complexion and ghostly pale stipe. This choice edible mushroom can be spotted in areas that have recently been subjected to a burn or wild fire, and it is perfectly camouflaged to blend in with this barren environment. Black morels are renowned in Europe, and a perfect addition to pasta or as the center piece of a meal.

Morchella elata 

While hunting the yellow, white, and black morels can provide an amusing and even profitable hobby, ever forager must be aware of the ever lurking false morel or Gyromitra esculenta. These poisonous mushrooms contain compounds that cause food poisoning like symptoms as well as gyromitrin, a substance linked to cancer development according to a number of studies including one out of Arkansas State University. False morels look indistinguishable from true morels to the untrained eye, but they have a distinctive brain like structure as opposed to true morel’s honey combs, and they are not hollow when cut down the middle (which true morels are).

Morel Grow

Morel mushrooms are infamously difficult to fruit, but by controlling temperature, light and humidity at key developmental stages even a beginner cultivator can grow magnificent mountains of morels! To successfully grow morels a cultivator must first inoculate his sterile-hydrated substrate (Aloha Medicinals recommends sorghum, brown rice, or rye seed) with a colonized Petri plate. The substrate can be mixed with sterile potting soil (1 part soil to 4 parts grain), but this addition is not necessary. Substrate should be placed jars with a filter lid or in filter bags and sterilized at 121^◦ C at 15 psi for 30 minutes to 1 hour before the inoculation occurs (see Aloha Medicinal’s website for all materials needed!). The jars should be placed at 65-71^◦ F in a dark grow room for about 5 weeks. It is important to remember most Morchella mycelium is brown, and scerotia (clusters of nutrients high in nitrogen) will form indicating the bottle is ready for induced fruiting. Fruiting substrate should be placed in filter bags and consist of a mixture of sorghum, sand, soil, hard wood sawdust, malt, water, and lime (the pH should be approximately 7.0-7.5), and sterilized at 121^◦ C at 15 psi for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Inoculate the filter bags with the jar spawn and reseal the bag. Over the next five weeks shake the bag until scerotia once again begin to develop and cover the top of the substrate. Humidity should be kept at 90-95%, with CO₂ levels maintained at 7,000ppm. Once the scerotia have colonized the bag, chill the spawn at 35-40^◦ F for 2 weeks- one month. This is an essential step to induce fruiting. After the allotted time the spawn can be removed from its bag and hydrated with room temperature sterile water once or twice a day (depending on location) or misted regularly (intervals depend on location). Casing is an optional but recommended step in insuring optimal fruiting. Casing should be a ½ inch addition consisting primarily of peat-moss. Insure the grow chamber the morels are fruiting in is kept dark, at about 70 ^◦ F with air exchange occurring once or twice an hour. Within a week or two primorida will form, and the moisture of the substrate should be maintained at 60%. At this developmental stage the temperature should be increased to 75^◦ F, with 100% humidity, and air exchange occurring more frequently at 5-10 times per hour; CO₂ levels must be kept less than 1000ppm, or mushrooms will not form.  As the morel fruit bodies form and begin to mature the substrate can be allowed to dry out to 50% moisture levels. Relative humidity should be dropped to 85-95%, and the grow chamber should be maintained at 75-80^◦ F, with air exchange occurring 5-10 times per hour, CO₂ levels still must be kept less than 1000ppm. An addition of a 10-12 hour light cycle becomes necessary at this stage of morel development. A week or so after morel fruit bodies begin forming they are ready to harvest and enjoy! Morels can also be planted outside in the fall under a tree they naturally form their mycorrhizal relationship by digging a hole about four inches deep; mix the soil with hardwood wood chips and morel spawn. Then enjoy your morel patch every April, May, and June for years to come!

Morel mushroom spawn orders here: Aloha Medicinals

Morels are an amazing and diverse group of mushrooms that provide the excitement of foraging, the majesty of cuisine, and the satisfaction of cultivation in one honey combed entity. No matter the variety, morels are a tasty and health conscious addition to any meal, and the demand for them is on the rise. Now is the time to invest in a Morchella strain and profit from these choice edible and highly desirable mushrooms!

posted by Haley T.

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New Okuda Log Inoculation Tools Make Your Spring Log Inoculation Faster and Easier! 
by Joe

Field and Forest Products is pleased to announce that we have reached an agreement with Okuda Shiitake of Japan to distribute their sawdust spawn inoculation tools in the United States and Canada. Japan has been a leader in log based Shiitake cultivation since the 1940's and have applied their well-known quality precision machining to shiitake inoculation tools. While these tools cost a good deal more than our Wisconsin made palm and thumb style tools, the savings come to you with automation of the inoculation process. They deliver spawn fast, accurately, and three of the tools eliminate an extra step and the cost of wax application should you choose to use the foam capping version. When considering buying these tools, time as money might well be included into your cost-benefit calculations as well as getting inoculation done in a timely manner, taking advantage of prime log moisture content, and enabling faster spawn run.

During this past fall's inoculation, we were able to field test Okuda's inoculation line with the exception of the fully automatic inoculation machine.  We found all the tools to be of excellent craftsmanship, as well as easy to use and maintain. Like anything new, these tools do have a learning curve, but are easily mastered. I'll give you a run down of each one. FAQs are at the end of the blog!

Inoculation stick; the ultimate "dual tool" 

Okuda's Inoculation Stick is a compact (15 cm or just shy of 6 inches) stainless steel, hand held sawdust spawn inoculation tool. Its compact size enables the user to inoculate with one hand. Using the palm of the hand to exert downward pressure on the tool, sawdust spawn is forced into the inoculation site. This tool makes inoculating crooked or twisty logs easy to do as it frees your other hand to hold the log steady.
The spring gauge on the inoculation stick is such that only minimal pressure is needed to press down on the tool. A replacement spring comes with the tool and is easy to replace. The tool is very easy to clean and being stainless steel, cleans up to a like-new sparkle after each use. If I was looking for a tool that would last a lifetime and was planning on doing 100 or so logs a year, this would be the tool I'd buy. The inoculation sites can be sealed either with a foam cap or melted wax.

   Our Thumb-Style and Palm-Style Inoculators, manufactured here locally, can be operated efficiently using thumb or palm (respectively), but not both (our Dual Tool Inoculator could be operated either way, but unfortunately, it is no longer available). These tools are a good value at a fraction of the cost, but the hands fatigue more quickly with the these tools and they require more frequent cleaning.

The Palm-Style Inoculator requires two hands to operate.

The Thumb-Style Inoculator requires only one hand to operate.

As cultivators know, inoculation and waxing large numbers of logs is a labor intensive, time consuming process. If there was one tool that would do both of these operations in one pass wouldn't that be the ticket? Well there are actually two! The first one is the Okuda Hand Inoculator. This tool is manually loaded like a regular hand held inoculation tool but by pressing the handle downward, the inoculation site is filled and capped with a foam cap in a single motion. The number of logs inoculated per hour is limited only by how fast the operator can refill the tool. Easy to operate and maintain, this would be a great tool for farms inoculating hundreds to thousands of logs.

The Okuda Hand Inoculator can fill and seal with the twitch of a finger.

The second tool that fills and seals in one pass is Okuda's Pegasus Semi-Automatic Log Inoculation Tool. This air-driven tool delivers spawn and a foam cap as fast as the operator can move the tool down the log. Once mastered, this tool can inoculate and seal 60-70 holes per minute. Yes, at times there can be clogging in the spawn delivery line, but it is easily remedied. The key to smooth operation of this tool is using sawdust spawn that has the right particle size which breaks easily into individual particles. To ensure this, we use a kitchen food processor to process the sawdust into a uniform consistency. For farms doing thousands of logs a season, this tool coupled with a high speed drill, will knock the task down to a manageable size in no time flat. The Pegasus does require a 2 HP or larger air compressor to run the machine efficiently.

The Okuda "Pegasus" is considered semi-automatic (vs. fully automatic)
because you still have to drill holes for the spawn to be injected.
The rest is done with a simple squeeze of the finger!

To seal those sawdust spawn inoculation sites you should consider the Okuda Wax Applicator. The ladle on this tool is a heavy gauge stainless steel so it retains heat extremely well. A single filling will seal about 40 inoculation sites (compared to approximately 6-7 holes with a single dip into the wax pot with a dauber; not to mention the wasted wax dripped from pot to log). The foam applicator is replaceable and the tool comes with 196 foam applicator plugs.

If you'd like to check out a quick video we did featuring log inoculation tools side by side, click here).

 Commonly Asked Questions

A foam cap as a sealant, really? That is the question most often posed to us concerning these tools. One solution to this question is that the Pegasus model is available with a wax option. That is, the spawn is delivered pneumatically, but then the inoculation sites would have to be waxed over using the Okuda Wax Applicator or similar device as a separate operation.

What about organic certification using foam caps? In 2007, when the status of clear cheese wax was under review by the National Organic Program, I asked what we could use as an alternative sealant. Their response was: Styrofoam. I was as shocked as you probably are. We have used Styrofoam caps for decades in our operation and if you come by to visit, you will be hard pressed to find them littering our laying or fruiting yard. We are running trials this winter to see what happens to the caps when they come in contact with either Wine Cap, a Pluerotus species or native organisms that are dwelling in our vermiculture boxes. So far, Wine Cap is doing a dandy job of running over Styrofoam caps incubated indoors in filter patch bags. We will see what is left of them in a few months!

What about the cost of caps verses wax? Foam caps are more cost efficient. For instance, to inoculate and seal 350 logs with foam caps the cost per log would be $0.17. To seal with wax, the cost per log would be $0.31 per log, not including the electricity required to melt the wax and the significantly higher shipping cost for the wax.

Okay, then, are there are any other things I should be aware of? Yes. Research by Okuda indicates faster spawn recovery and spawn run in using foam caps versus wax. We set up a trial to duplicate these results on our farm at the end of February.

Why the 13.5mm drill size? We have found that this increase in drill diameter speeds up spawn run as more wood is exposed to inoculum. Another benefit is that the first flush mushrooms from the inoculation sites are larger than those from smaller diameter inoculation sites.

We will let you know what we have to say about the fully automatic tool later in the month of March. By then, we should also be able to report back on our trial regarding different spawn sealant use, spawn run rates and costs per log.

The bottom line is that we offer a wide selection of tools for a variety of price ranges and workloads. Our locally made inoculation tools are solid, well made and the most economical choice for many growers. The Okuda inoculation tools take it up another notch, are built for a lifetime and run like clockwork. Regardless of your choice, purchase of any of our tools guarantees backup support from us here at F&FP; we will continue to use all of the tools we sell and you can always expect help from us, from proper operation instruction to valuable maintenance tips.

Reishi Tincture: A Cure All
by Laura

Aside from being beautiful and entertaining to grow, Reishi has great medicinal benefits.

I suppose our recent craze over Reishi as a medicinal happened by accident. Occasionally,  our Table Top Farms fruit on us before we get a chance to put them in the cooler. This happened recently with a full load (nearly 50 blocks) of Reishi. Before we knew it we were surrounded on all sides by Reishi. What to do with all these mushrooms? Why not do what so many others are doing, and make a tincture!

Reishi is difficult to market in our area, mostly because it is not a culinary edible (it is considered non edible because it is too tough, it is NOT poisonous), and when taken in tea form, can be incredibly bitter. I have tried it among countless other teas and spices, and the bitter always shines through. I found myself struggling to finish even a single cup.

Sometimes referred to as the mushroom of immortality, Reishi is most commonly used as a supplement for boosting the immune system to prevent certain viral infections. It is also being used to help with high blood pressure, heart, lung, liver, and kidney disease, and cancer just to name a few. Further research will show you that it is being used for so many more ailments. If you are interested in the details of Reishi I recommend the book Mushrooms for Health by Greg Marley. 

After doing some research I found that certain medicinal components of Reishi are soluble in water (i.e. by making tea), but other components are only soluble in alcohol (i.e by making a tonic) and the very best form of it would come from a double extraction tincture. With a tincture you get the best of both worlds; a liquid that ends up to be 75% water, 25% alcohol, and contains everything that is good about Reishi. Surprisingly, the tincture seems far less bitter than the tea, and is taken in relatively small doses. Therefore, is far less noticeable when added to you favorite drink (I add it to my morning, midday, and sometimes evening coffee).

Mary Ellen 's obsession with coffee is real, and now includes a splash of Reishi tincture.  

"I know in my heart of hearts that if it were not for coffee I would have to find another reason to jump out of bed in the morning. In all truth I believe that Reishi tonic could be it. 1/2 tsp of this tincture first thing in the morning gives me that slightly caffeinated zing, plus I know it is a zing with benefits! I haven't tried it as a coffee substitute yet, but admit to hoping always to have the privilege of drinking both." -- Mary Ellen (Owner of F&FP)

Back in November, Mary Ellen and I decided to make a tincture and give it to all of the employees as a Christmas gift. Certain employees, and I'm not going to name names (Joe, Jasen, Nick, Lindsey & Natalie) have not been religious in taking their Reishi. They probably will not live as long as team members Mary Ellen, Derek, and myself, but we will always remember them for their hard work and dedication to the job.

Here is the method I used for creating the tincture (several online resources were compared for what I believe to be a great recipe):

First, I chopped up a bunch of Reishi using a coffee grinder. Some of this Reishi was fresh and some was completely dried. It filled a glass gallon jar about 1/3 of the way full. You could use a food processor as well (ours just wasn't doing the trick, it kept getting jammed.). Then, I added two bottles (750ml) of 100 proof vodka. The jar ends up to be a little more than half full. I placed the jar in a cool dark place and let it sit for four weeks, shaking it up every few days. Using cheese cloth I strained out the Reishi and placed it a large stock pot (reserving the alcohol of course). The alcohol is measured and an equal amount of water is added to the stock pot (do not add the alcohol though). This amount of water must be marked somehow. Mine conveniently lined up with the bottom of a screw on the stock pot. I added a few extra cups of water and boiled it down (about an inch below my mark) I did this a total of three times, but the third time I shut off the heat when the water reached my mark. Once it cooled I strained out and discarded the Reishi, added the water to the alcohol, stirred, funneled into 4 ounce dropper bottles, and labeled. Some of the discarded Reishi was added to my worm bins, and the rest went into the outdoor compost pile. If any of you have different methods or advice on how to make a tincture with Reishi I would love to hear about it!

Adding a dose of Reishi tincture to my coffee has become part of my daily routine both at home and on the farm.

I have been taking Reishi everyday since mid-December, mostly because I became extremely sick with Mono while my tincture was brewing. The sickness wiped me out for several weeks, and as a mother of four, this just simply can't happen again! I have managed to avoid becoming sick this entire month despite sickness all around me, even in my own home. I am convinced that Reishi is helping my immune system out tremendously, and honestly, going into this I was doubtful. I am not alone in this Reishi journey, here is what Derek had to say:

Depressed from a Packers loss, no worries, Reishi is here! 

"Reishi is not the best tasting fungi, but using this method for personal consumption allowed me to get a healthy dose every day without even noticing the bitter taste. There are various medicinal benefits of this mushroom including immune boosting properties and in my particular case, coping with depression. Once I got on a regular schedule of consumption I noticed the added energy and awareness boost, and can honestly say that I have avoided many flu and virus strains that have plagued the general public. Keep in mind I didn't even waste my hard earned money getting a flu shot! But above all, I have avoided the serious depression that coincides with Green Bay Packer playoffs losses. I am an avid Packer fan and happen to get emotionally invested in my team. Previous failed attempts to reach the Super Bowl left me bed ridden for days. I did not experience this sort of depression this year and I think it is reasonable to conclude that the Reishi helped me overcome this. Get on a regular schedule of Reishi consumption and find out for yourself!"

Derek and I wrote this testimony separately, neither of us, revealing what the other wrote until the day this blog was compiled. Amazing! I too, declined my annual flu shot in order to test the power of Reishi, one amazing fungus. 

Reishi fruiting on a log in here at the farm. This guy is indoors because Reishi is not a fan of our cold climate.

Strain spotlight: the brown-cap oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus 213)

Pleurotus ostreatus, or the oyster mushroom, is one of the world’s most easily cultivated edible fungi. As its Latin name “Pleurotus” implies the oblong caps of this tasty mushroom grow horizontally or sideways with respect to its vertical stem, and “ostreatus” refers to resemblance it shares with the oyster, a marine mollusk, making it just as easy to identify in the misty forests of the North-Western United States as it is in balmy India or subtropical New Zealand. Despite its global reputation, each oyster mushroom strain posses distinct traits, which dynamically alter its appearance, flavor, and its ability to be cultured, making a strain from China incomparable to a strain isolated from Florida. In this excerpt Pleurotus ostreatus 213will be characterized for its individual qualities as well those it shares with oyster mushrooms as a whole.

Oyster mushroom strain 213

The distinct aesthetic, culinary, and adaptational characteristics of Pleurotus ostreatus 213 make it the ideal choice for beginner and master cultivators alike. Pleurotus ostreatus 213produces feathery, delicate caps that grow in a unique shingling pattern; this layering of fruit bodies minimizes the potential for dehydration and contamination to occur (favoring mushroom enthusiasts who are just getting started!). Its light brown caps are more photosensitive than a number of strains, providing a challenge to more experienced cultivators by developing growing conditions to obtain the ideal coloration for the optimal aesthetic dining experience.

The petite crowns of strain 213 provide benefits to any number of culinary endeavors. Due to the perfect size of the caps, these mushrooms require minimal preparation (the better to preserve the earthy flavor) and can be consumed in just a few bites. The velvety caps can be sautéed in cream for an almondy-rich sauce or combined with butter for a delectable meal in and of themselves.  The stems can be added to a stir fry to provide a woody contrast texture to an otherwise flat meal or removed later after the delicious mushroom flavor has seeped into the other vegetables. Even the mycelium can provide a cultivator with a delicious and nutritious supplement if dried and ground when added to tea, juice, or even bread and meatloaf.

 Pleurotus ostreatus 213 also holds the unique adaptation of being drought tolerant, making this strain perfect for drier climates. The wide range of temperatures (50-70 degrees Fahrenheit) optimal for fruiting this strain allows it to adapt to a number of environments. Six to eight weeks after colonization, fruiters are able to achieve 150% biological efficiency, and they are well into their third or fourth flush of premier oyster mushrooms (with many more to come!). When the block or bag of spawn is spent it can be recycled in compost or a garden to establish a prosperous micro-biota to enrich soil for crop production.

Pleurotus ostreatus 213 is a unique strain, having many exceptional individual characteristics, but it still belongs to the oyster mushroom group as a whole, so it shares the qualities of being able to colonizing a great number of substrates as well as being receptive to numerous decontamination techniques with all Oysters. Oyster mushrooms can grow on virtually any plant based material, and strain 213 is no exception to this rule. Many oyster mushrooms prefer a substrate low in lignin (the compound responsible for the structure of wood) such as straw, hard wood sawdust, and agricultural waste products like corn cobs, but it can grow just as prolifically on card board, fall leaves, coffee grounds, or any other plant based waste common to households.

Oyster mushrooms are a hearty group allowing for the substrate to be disinfected by lime pasteurization, soap, hot water, ash, or heat sterilization techniques. To perform a disinfection step, soak the substrate (straw is recommended for this method) in a solution of hydrated lime. The exact concentration is not critical but the pH should be high and when the straw is added, the solution should be a milky yellow color. Submerge the straw or choice substrate, weight it down so it does not float, and wait 12 to 24 hours. After soaking, drain the excess water, bag the straw and inoculate it with Pleurotus ostreatus 213 spawn. Soap is also a good disinfection agent. Make a strong soap solution, soak 12 to 24 hours; drain the excess water and inoculate. Oyster Mushrooms use straw and the soap as a nutrient source, so there is no residue soap left in the mushrooms; it is all bio-converted into mushroom tissue. The hot water method can also be used to pasteurize substrate. Either boil water and pour it onto the substrate, and allow it to soak until the water has cooled or boil the substrate in water for 1 hour (depending on the size of the operation). Drain the excess water. Bag and inoculate the substrate. Ash is a third means to pasteurize a substrate, and it follows the same procedure as the lime technique. Finally, the ultimate method to insure optimal sterilization of a substrate is to treat it with heat either in a pressure cooker or an autoclave. Depending on the specifics of the machine pressures will vary but the substrate should reach 121 degrees Celsius for 15-45 minutes. Allow the substrate to cool before inoculation procedures.

Oyster mushrooms are a well known group of mushrooms that are easy to work with for beginners, but they can also provide a challenge in developing the perfect flush for cultivators who are more experienced. While Oyster mushrooms as a group have many beneficial qualities for propagation like the ability to colonize versatile substrates and respond to any disinfectant technique, individual strains like Pleurotus ostreatus 213 have unique traits such as appearance, flavor, and adaptations that set them apart from the rest.

This excellent strain might be purchased from Aloha Medicinals Inc. in form of culture or grain spawn

Written by Haley Toups

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Last Sigh of Summer: Shiitake Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato Sandwiches

by Mary Ellen

A new F&FP favorite, the Shiitake BLT!

Northern Wisconsin really didn't have summer this year. Mostly cool, rainy, and plagued with a never-ending, relentless crop of mosquitoes, no one wanted to spend much time outdoors.

Some things on the farm managed to shine through regardless. The blueberry crop was exceptional with all of the rain and cooler temps, producing berries the size of marbles! Our shiitake logs, properly cared for and tended in prior years that were kinder to my gardening self, busted out with succulent and richly flavored shiitake all summer long despite my general neglect to them and everything else garden related. And finally, finally, at the end of September, our June-planted tomatoes in the hoop house started turning red. This year, that first harvest of tomatoes pretty much coincided with the tireless march of Miss Happiness shiitake. Dense, solid and meaty, Miss Happiness has one of the longest fall seasons of all the cold weather strains. And man, does this girl have legs: she started in August and is still pinning at the end of October!

Fresh ingredients are always best.

So, in a last ditch attempt to salvage at least the flavor of summer, I decided to make BLT's. And to further redeem myself, I wasn't going to settle for just ordinary.

I am not a fan of bacon (although I do like Canadian bacon). I mostly detest the white part (its fat and texture) of regular bacon and although I tolerate turkey bacon, I squint while preparing it (to avoid its apparent super processed look and smell). It was time to try experimenting with one of those shiitake bacon recipes I've had stuck to my refrigerator for years now.  

Well, as it turns out, shiitake bacon is delicious. It really does taste just like bacon. Yes, it's putzy, but if you have some thick, solid, log grown shiitake, you can slice it, cure it (marinate) and roast it  in a hot oven. It has a rich and buttery flavor, complete with chewy centers and crispy edges. SB also makes a toothsome and healthy snack, as it stays crisp for several hours after cooling from the oven.  This very well may become my new bacon bit.  And of course, shiitake bacon pairs just as well with scrambled eggs or french toast for any non-BLT fans. (We've also heard that smoked shiitake are incomparable. Let us know if you've tried this!)

Here is the method: You will need about a cup of sliced mushrooms per person and that is a modest amount. You really should double the recipe for snacking. The following recipe produces enough bacon for about 4 SBLT's. Note: Allow at least an hour to prepare these. 

Ingredients:

4 cups sliced shiitake

Marinade:

2 TBSP oil

½ tsp salt

1 ½ tsp liquid smoke

2 tsp toasted sesame oil

1 tsp smoked paprika (optional)

2 tsp maple syrup (optional)

Stem the shiitake and slice it thinly. 1/8^th inch or less is preferable for the ultimate crispness.

Slicing your shiitakes thin ensures for some nice crispy "bacon".

To prepare the marinade, stir together all ingredients, and drizzle over the sliced shiitakes. Toss the mushrooms in the marinade until the slices are fairly well coated and let marinate at room temperature for at least 20 minutes or up to an hour. Stirring the mushrooms a time or two during that time helps speed things along. You can also marinate and refrigerate overnight to achieve comparable pork bacon cooking times in the morning.

These fresh shiitake were just covered in marinade.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F) and spread the mushrooms out onto a baking sheet. Use parchment or a silpat for easy work, or grease the sheet first.

Bake 20 minutes, stirring or turning halfway through. If the mushrooms are really wet you may need to drain away the water halfway through.

Increase the heat to 375 degrees (F) and check every 10 minutes or so, more often towards the end. Usually if the bacon is sliced thinly it is done in 10-15 minutes after the oven heat is increased. Remove the mushrooms onto a paper towel and blot. It should be browned and irresistible, but not burned. You might experiment with other seasoning in the marinade or with thicknesses of cut; or grilling marinated whole thin-capped mushrooms.  

The end result will not disappoint!

For inspiration, check out www.olivesfordinner.com, for the original shiitake bacon recipe plus other great vegan mushroom recipe ideas.