Thursday, 19 July 2012

Plant nutrition guidelines

A healthy plant is essential to sustain productivity. Plant health is dependent on the nutritional status of the soil. A constant supply of water is required to move nutrients and support growth. Nutrition should be closely monitored  with regular soil and leaf analysis. Key steps in plant nutrition and irrigation include regular soil sampling, correct fertilizer use and timely irrigation practices. Sampling requires the use of a trowel and putting the soil in a plastic bag. Pick the soil from different points in the farm using a W or Zigzag pattern. Sample at the right time i.e. not immediately after fertilizer and manure application, or when the ground is too dry or too wet.

Sample at the right depth and submit the soil sample for analysis immediately. The results will indicate the required nutrition interventions on your farm. The required crop nutrients are classified into macro and micronutrients meaning required in large and small quantities respectively. The macronutrients required by crops are:-
·        Phosphorus(P) is required at sowing or transplanting
·        Nitrogen(N)is required for growth and development
·        Potassium(K) is essential for flowering and fruiting
Micronutrients required by crop include zinc, iron, calcium, manganese and magnesium.
All these elements can be supplied from a combination of manure or manure and inorganic fertilizer. Add manure or compost to your farm regularly for good crop nutrition.

Composted material that combines plant and animal waste is better as it provides more nutrients to the crop. To make compost, collect vegetable and animal waste or manure and arrange in layers, alternating chopped woody material and fresh material and keep the material moist. Turn the layers regularly in order to aerate the compost heap and achieve even composting forcomposition takes some weeks and can be quickened by adding microorganisms such as EM and or trichoderma. Compost can be improved by use of earthworms which is called vermicomposting.inorganic fertilizers supplement Compost and manures.Improper use of fertilizers will lead to nutrient deficiency or toxicity causing reduction of yields and environmental pollution. Remember Plant nutrients supply and health is dependent on the nutritional status of the soil.(read  plant extracts special TOF Nr. 17 September 2006).

5. Incubation, Fruitbody Development, and Harvest


The Incubation of Inoculated Compost Bags

The term of 'compost incubation' is assigned to the period of time from inoculation until mushroom fruiting. At Pleurotus this usually lasts between 17 and 27 days. 
Incubation is usually done in the same room where mushroom fruiting occurs or may be done in a separate room especially designed for this purpose. The latter variant is even better since it reduces the contamination of your mushroom growing room with alien organisms.
To avoid the possible contamination of the bag and its extension to other bags as well and to facilitate gas exchange within the bags is important to:
place the bags at 10-15 cm distance one from another;
avoid overlapping the bags, this can increase the substrate temperature during spawn run; 
do not wet the bags.
    Fig. 22. Hanging column bags incubating in the grow room
    (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)

    To ensure the mycelium development during incubation it is necessary to create an environment similar to that found in nature which is specific for every mushroom species. 

    Further you should focus on:
    Temperature: should be constant (if possible). You should also keep in mind that temperature requirements are variable for thermophilic and criophilic mushroom species (see table 1) 
    Humidity: It is recommended to keep humidity at optimum levels (75-80%) by watering the grow room floors and walls from time to time. 
    Ventilation: A continuous ventilation ensures air circulation and gas ex-change in the grow room. Without equipment this may be achieved by forming a passive air current throughout the grow room. 
    Light: At this stage is not mandatory.


      Pleurotus ostreatus
      P. ostreatus f. florida
      P. citrinopileatus
      P. eryngii
      Inoculation
      Mycelium quantity/substrate:
      2%
      2%
      2%
      3%
      Incubation
      Temperature : °C
      Temperature: F
      (10)20-24
      (50)68-75.2
      20-22
      68-71.6
      22-29
      71.6-84.2
      23-25
      73.4-77

      Substrate temp.: °C
      Substrate temp.: F
      25-30
      77-86
      25-30
      77-86
      27-32
      80.6-89.6
      25-28
      77-82.4

      Time:
      12-14(22) days
      12-14 days
      10-14 days
      (12)14-18 days
      Pinhead Formation
      Temperature: °C
      Temperature: F
      (8)10-15(20)
      (46.4)20-59(68)
      15-20
      59-68
      15-25(30)
      59-77(86)
      10-18
      50-64.4

      Relative Humidity:
      90-95%
      90-95%
      90-95%
      90-95%
      Fruitbody Conditions
      Temperature : °C
      Temperature: F
      (10)13-20(25)
      (50)55.4-68(77)
      (11)13-20(28)
      (51.8)55.4-68(82.4)
      (13)17-22(28)
      (55.4)62.6-71.6(82.4)  
      14-18(21)
      57.2-64.4(69.8)

      Relative Humidity:
      85%
      85%
      85%
      82-85%

      Concentration of CO2:
      < 1000 ppm
      < 1000 ppm
      < 1000 ppm
      < 1500 ppm

      Light:
      800-1500 lux
      800-1500 lux
      800-1500 lux
      800-1500 lux
      Watering
      No. times/day:
      2-3
      2-3
      2-3
      2

      Period:
      7-10(14) days
      7-10 days
      7-10(14) days
      7-14 days

      Relative Humidity:
      90%
      90-95%
      90-95%
      90%
      Production Cycle
      Period:
      2-3 months
      2-3 months
      2-3 months
      2-3 months


      Note: The beginner mushroom cultivator may ignore some of the require-ments presented in table 1. Since we are discussing backyard mushroom farming, the notes above are rather concerning equipped grow rooms able to offer optimal environmental conditions for mushroom development. Oyster mushroom cultivation is very easy and do not requires much attention.

      Observation: After 3-4 days from inoculation the mycelium growth may be seen. The mycelium hyphae are slowly expanding their surface covering up the substrate. The incubation phase ends with the induction of mushroom primordia formation (pinhead formation). In this moment the mycelium has already covered up the whole compost surface.

      Fig. 23. Oyster mushroom primordia formation 
      (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)
      Fig. 24. Primordia of Pleurotus
      (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)

      Mushroom Fruitbody Formation & Development

      The mushroom fruitbody formation occurs across the bag surface where we made holes  through the plastic film. At first, they appear as small dark colored pinheads that gradually develop and get lighter in color. If you placed the sack on the ground and the room temperature is rather optimal you may untie the bags at the end and leave them wide open. The fruitbody formation lasts between 4 to 10 days depending on the species, strain and microclimate conditions. However, at this stage you should consider the following aspects:

      Humidity: Now is the moment when the growing mushrooms should be watered through the use of a pressure pump. They should be sprayed 2 to 3 times/day until harvest. If the mushrooms are stagnant in their growth or are getting dried the watering is insufficient. 
      Temperature: Should be constant if possible.
      Ventilation: To prevent fungus drying avoid strong and dry direct airflow in the grow room. 
      Light: It is indispensable at this point for mushroom development, therefore this is very important. If the grow room is a basement and it doesn't have any natural light, then you should use artificial light: neon tubes preferably blue fluorescent of 40W power placed at 2-3 meters / 78.7-118.1 inches above or along the sides of the grow room. Leave them to light up the room from 8 to 12 hours per day.

      Note: Light intensity is important and has direct effect on fruitbody develop-ment. A less intense light affects the mushroom stem making it longer while the cap is getting poorly developed.

      Fig. 25. Mushroom pinhead formation of Pleurotus
      (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)

      Fig. 26. Fruitbody development by using artificial light 
      (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)

      Harvest

      Mushrooms are harvested after 3-5 days once pinhead formation has occurred. Mature oyster mushrooms consist of well developed fruitbodies lighter in color and with the mushroom cap margin nearly flat. At this point harvest oyster mushrooms by hand twisting the whole mushroom bunch or by cutting the mushroom stem base with a knife. 

      Note: Mushrooms not harvested in time lose their quality. 
      After the first round of mushrooms has been harvested the plastic foil cover-ing the bag may be removed if environmental conditions (especially humidity and airflow) allow this. 
      The harvest is followed by a time gap of 8 to 10 days until the next round of mushrooms; however, this is not a rule because sometimes they appear in a single round. 

      Fig. 27. Oyster mushroom fruitbodies
      (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)
      Fig. 28. Harvested oyster mushrooms
      (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com) 

      How many mushroom production rounds are there?
      Well, there may be 3 to 5 rounds of mushrooms to be harvested (when you have equipment that provides proper environmental conditions for fruitbody devel-opment) or 2 to 3 rounds when you don't use such equipment. 
      The life-cycle of the whole culture should last 1 to 2 months (the case of classical mushroom cultivation). 

      Caution: To prevent respiratory system allergies caused by spore formation in the grow room it will be necessary to use a mask covering up your nose and mouth and a dressing suit only used for this purpose. Billions of spores are released when mushrooms reach the state of maturity. These spores spread all over the grow room and affect the lungs of the unprotected personnel when harvesting mushrooms. In order to avoid air load with spores in the grown room before each harvest you should spray all over with water.  

      Find Out More!


      MUSHROOMES CLUB UPDATES IN YOUR INBOX
      FOLLOW ME

      Wednesday, 18 July 2012

      4. Compost Heat Treatment and Inoculation

      Compost Heat Treatment

      After weighting the material it can be soaked into water for several hours (recommended) or it can be directly sent to heat treatment. 
      There are several methods of heat treatment but here I will show you only two of them because they are widely used in the household system:

      1. Direct flame heating (as shown in fig. 15): The material is placed into a container (usually a metal barrel, or an improvised boiler) half filled with water and it is soaked by using a grill placed on the top of it which is designed to keep the material under water, then everything is covered up with a lid for an appropriate heat treatment. 
      2. Scalding the material into hot water: the same procedure as described above should be used here too.
        Fig. 15. Substrate pasteurization on direct flame 
        (Photo credits: www. fungiforum.com)

        Heat the content of the barrel until the temperature reaches 80-85 ºC / 176-185 F and try to maintain this temperature for about 2 to 4 hours. If the treatment temperature is lower, then allow more time for heat treatment process. This way occurs the so called 'substrate pasteurization' and this step is important because kills competing fungi and bacteria present into the substrate mass. However this temperature doesn't kill some bacteria species useful for the mushroom cultivation process. 

        Note: Another heat treatment procedure is to sterilize the material by boiling it for several hours or rising the temperature to 121ºC / 249.8 F for about 30 minutes to 1 hour. However, this procedure is not suitable for backyard mushroom cultivation. 


        Preparing the Compost for  Inoculation with Mushroom Mycelium

        The house backyard mushroom cultivation is a concept based on ideas and lots of improvised tools in order to make the whole process easier. 
        One of such improvised tools is the wire mesh container which is filled up with material and soaked under water during heat treatment. This has the ad-vantage that allows water flow immediately after heat treatment. Thus through a rope system it can be lifted up from the boiler and kept in the air while water is licking away (see Fig. 16). It also has the advantage of removing all material from the barrel after heat treatment.

        Fig. 16. An improvised wire mesh container filled up with straw
        (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)

        Caution: All operations that we undertake from now on (draining, inoculation, weighing, etc) should be performed in clean conditions in order to avoid substrate infection with molds, germs and bacteria; otherwise all of our work until now could be compromised. This is why containers and all tools that the pasteurized material enters in contact with should be clean enough to ensure mushroom cultivation suc-cess.
        A first step is to clean up container surfaces with 90º alcohol or some other germ killing substances (however, these should be oyster fungus friendly substanc-es designated only against competing fungi or bacteria). 
        Wash hands with soap and water then spray them with alcohol or use a pair of gloves.
        After pasteurization, allow material to cool down preferably on a clean con-crete surface covered up with a clean plastic wrap, or a specially designed table for this purpose (see Fig.17). Disperse the material on the table in a layer of 20-30 cm / 7.9-11.8 US inch thick in order to cool quickly. 

        Fig. 17. Material left to cool down on an improvised table designed solely for this purpose(Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)
        ! Check the substrate before inoculation:
        The material when squeezed into our hands should not show any water drops;
        The smell should indicate a freshly humidified substrate and should not have any sour odor indication the start of decomposition process. 

        Note: How will you know if you did the right thing so far?
        Water should not accumulate at the bottom of the plastic bag that is going to be introduced in (waste bag, customized plastic bag, etc). 
        When the substrate temperature drops down to ca. 20-25 ºC / 68-77 F the material is cool enough to be weighted and inoculated with mushroom mycelium (spawn). 
        In order to know the exact quantity of compost, it is recommended to weight materials in a wet state separately and then to mix them up. 


        Adding Supplements and Mycelium to the Substrate

        1. Immediately after mixing up the substrate ingredients we will add to the substrate mixture gypsum at a rate according to the chosen formula (usually 4-5%) mix well and we are ready to go further with the inoculation step. 

        2. Now take a pair of disposal gloves on your hands and carefully take the mycelium out of the jar or bag. Care should be taken not to damage the hypha of mycelium surrounding the grain kernels or other support on which it is growing. Mycelium is a living organism, therefore if damaged the mycelium won't be able to spread throughout the compost and this will result in low mushroom yield. 

        3. Now weight the mycelium and use the desired quantity (usually 2-3% = 2-3 kg / 4.4.-6.6 lbs to 100kg /220 lbs of compost)

        4. Next add the weighted mycelium quantity to the readily pasteurized and cooled substrate that has been mixed up with gypsum (see Fig.19). Mix everything together and disperse the mycelium in the whole substrate mass.
        Fig. 18. Adding mycelium to the straw based substrate 
        (Photo credits: www.wildbranchmushrooms.com)
        ! Remarks:
        a) If you will increase the amount of mycelium added to the substrate from 1.25% to 5% automatically the mushroom production will increase by about 30-50%. In addition this will reduce the time necessary for spawn to colonize the substrate during incubation and will prevent contamination by competing molds, bacteria or insect occurrence in the substrate. 
        b) If you won't take into consideration the first remark, the competing spe-cies might take control of part (10-20%) of your bags filled up with inoculated sub-strate. When this happens, the oyster mushroom mycelium stops or reduces its development. However, such situations occur, even if you did everything right, so there's no need to panic if you find 10-20% of your bags are infected with molds or such contaminants. Don't get discouraged, but try to think of what did you do wrong or how could you improve your mushrooming experience. From time to time even the experienced mushroomers are dealing with such situations. 


        The Mushroom Mycelium: What is It? and Where Can It be Purchased?

        Once you know exactly what species of mushroom you will cultivate, the next step is to procure mycelium (spawn or mushroom seeds). However, before purchasing mycelium you should know few things:
        Check the provenience of the mycelium. A pure mycelium is the result of its preparation in laboratory conditions; therefore you should purchase it from companies that you trust;
        Make sure that your mycelium is fresh (it has a warranty of about 2 months);
        Another important aspect refers to transportation: this should be made in proper temperature conditions (2-4 C / 35.6-39.2 F);
        Do not accept damaged bags of mycelium;
        Make sure that you've got the best strain, this will influence your mush-room production.


        Where do we get the mycelium from?
        You can get mycelium from various sources of producers or cultivators. 
        Here are some mycelium producer addresses that might help you:

        http://www.fungiperfecti.com/
        http://www.italspawn.com/ita/  
        http://www.sylvaninc.com/ 


        If you are not pleased with buying spawn whenever you want to grow mushrooms you can build your own lab with less than $400, in order to find out how visit the Consulting page

        How much mycelium should you purchase?
        As a beginner cultivator you should purchase a small amount: 3-5 kilos /6.6-11 lbs are sufficient for the inoculation of 20 substrate bags each one of them weighting 5 kilograms /11 lbs.
        Note: Once purchased mycelium should be kept in the fridge and taken out with up to 24 hours before usage. 


        Preparing the Compost Bags for Incubation

        Once prepared the compost mixture is inserted into trash bags or column type customized bags (about 4-10kg / 8.8-10 lbs of material in each bag). The bags are then bound to their end by using a rope.

        Note: Preferably use transparent polyethylene bags for a good visibility. This is important because you can easily detect any infection in time. In case of contamination remove the bag out of the incubation room. Another advantage of the transparent plastic is that you can observe the spawn run through the compost mass. 

        Fig. 19. Inserting the inoculated compost into polyethylene bags
        (Photo credits:www.fungiforum.com)

        Fig. 20. Inserting the inoculated compost into polyethylene bags
        (Photo credits:www.fungiforum.com)
        Next take the bags and make wholes on their surface with a diameter of 1-2 centimeters / 0.4-0.8 in and distribute them in zigzag at distances of 10-15 cm / 3.9-5.9 inches one from another. Make rounded wholes or cross shaped wholes. The latter variant is superior to the first one because it reduces the chances of compost to lose humidity especially in the warm season.
        The mycelium hypha in order to grow requires nutrients, moisture, temperature, oxygen and pathways for elimination of metabolic substances resulted from their development process such as carbon dioxide and metabolic water. Therefore the role of the holes is to allow gas exchange in the substratum. 

        Note: The size of the bag also has its significance. A good habit is to think about balance: a small and narrow bag will quickly dehydrate (especially in sum-mer), on the opposite, a big and thick bag prevents good ventilation. Having in mind this simple principle most mushroomers are using bags measuring 40-50 cm /15.7-19.7 inches in diameter and 70-80 cm 27.6-31.5 inches long. 

        Fig. 21. Preparing the bags for incubation: a) bag dimensions; b) cross-shaped whole; c)  whole making device.
        Find Out More!


        MUSHROOMES CLUB UPDATES IN YOUR INBOX
        FOLLOW ME

        Tuesday, 17 July 2012

        Growing spinach vegetables in Kenya

        Spinach vegetables are grown for it’s for its succulent edible green leaves. They are rich in vitamin and minerals especially iron. The vegetables thrive well in altitudes below 1000M above sea level. The soils should be fertile, well drained and high in organic matter content. Varieties of spinach vegetables include 


        1. Early hybrid No.7: This is an upright growing, compact and very prolific plant. The leaves are dark green, semi savoyed and large with short petioles. It is early maturing and highly productive, tolerant to downy mildew and has a very good regeneration ability.
        2. Bloomshade long standing: These are an upright compact plant with thick fleshy leaves which are dark green, savoyed, large and with very long petioles. It is vigorous and exceptionally long standing vegetables.
        3. Giant noble: These are a dwarf plants, fast growing but produces moderate yields. The leaves are mid-green, thick, and smooth with short petioles.
        4. King of Denmark: This is a spreading plant, very prolific and vigorous in growth. The leaves are mid-green, smooth, thick, broad, and medium sized with long petioles. This variety has rapid regeneration ability.
        5. New Zealand spinach: These are a hardy low spreading and branching plant. It has numerous leaves which are thick, fleshy dark green, triangular and smaller than other varieties. The seeds are large and prickly but germinate slowly. It does well in hot dry climates. It produces large amounts of green vegetables over a long period and is therefore best suited for home gardens. 

        Prior to planting spinach seeds are soaked in water for about 24 hours in order to enhance germination. The seeds are sown thinly in rows 30-40 cm apart and 2cm deep. The seedlings are later thinned to 10-20 cm apart within the row leaving only strong plants. Adequate watering is essential for good growth. Spinach seedlings can also be raised in a nursery bed and transplanted into the field. Spinach vegetables respond well to fertilizer application before transplating.200kg of DAP fertilizer is recommended for every hectare grown with these green vegetables. The farm should be free of weeds to minimize competition for production of marketable leaves. There are no major pest and diseases/of economic importance. However ringspot disease which is easily spread through water splash can reduce the quality of marketable produce. Mulching is therefore a good control method. The crop can be harvested for a period of 6-12 months. The largest green leaves should be harvested as they mature. These should be cut off carefully to avoid injuring the spinach plant. Staggered growing should be practiced for sustainable vegetables production. Spinach leaves become coarse in texture and bitter as they grow old.  more-http://yagrein.blogspot.com/p/what-are-youth-saying.html

        3. Compost Making for Oyster Mushrooms


        Main ingredients of the mushroom cultivation compost

        Oyster mushrooms generally grow on a wide range of agricultural waste materials of which they decompose. Such waste materials may be easily found in our house backyard, in our own kitchen or in the paper and wood industry. It can be used any material that is consisting of cellulose and lignin, two basic constituents of wood and plant organisms.
        Many woody materials consist also of resins and polyphenolic compounds (such as found in the conifer wood) that inhibit mycelium growth in some mush-rooms. 

        Therefore for oyster mushroom cultivation is not recommended to use as main grow substrate coniferous wood. By contrast, Pleurotus species grow on de-ciduous wood such as: beech, poplar, oak, birch, maple, and other such wood types. Other largely used substrates include: straw (wheat, barley, rice, etc), cotton hulls, corn stalks, leaves, paper or other agricultural wastes. 

        For those living in the city oyster mushrooms can be grown on cardboard, nut shells, (e.g., peanut, sunflower), coffee grounds, hay, or dry leaves. All of these substrates are rich sources of nutrients for mushrooms and are readily available as wastes in our own yard or kitchen. Why throw them out? We have the chance to turn them into food. 

        Fig. 13. Shell types available in the kitchen of the city mushroom cultivator


        Things to consider when choosing substrate material:
        I recommend you to use fresh materials (not older than 1 year);
        the material shouldn't be moldy or wet because of improper storage;
        the material should not have any color other than its native color;
        the material should be clean without any alien particles such as rocks or glass pieces; 
        the substrate dimension is an important feature and is strongly connected with the spawn (mycelium) run through compost. For example the straw should be chopped into small pieces (1-1.5 cm/0.4-06 US in) or wood should be used as wood chips. Keep in mind: the bigger the substrate particle is, the slower the decomposition rate by mushrooms gets and this results in a longer time until mushroom fruitbody formation. 

        Note: If you don't have any chopping machine around, no problem use the material as it is (for example use straw as it is). Wood may be also used as whole logs; however, in order to proceed with mushroom cultivation on wood piles check my future posts for instructions 

        Fig. 14. Straw ready for pasteurization
        (Photo credits: www.fungiforum.com)

        Adding Nutritional Supplements to the Substrate

        The intake of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and mineral supplements in-creases the rate of substrate colonization by the mushroom mycelium and has a direct effect on the final mushroom production from a quantitative and a qualitative point of view. Among the best sources of protein I will list here: soy (added to substrate as grain or flour), wheat germ, or yeast. Sources rich in carbohydrates are the following: seeds of wheat, barley, oats, corn and rice. 
        Supplements are usually added to the main substrate at a rate of 3-25% and are not a mandatory component in preparing the compost that will be used as food for mushroom fruitbody formation. One aspect worth considering here is that using supplements improves productivity but encourages fungal contamination of the substrate by other competing species such as molds or bacteria.

        Note: I recommend to the beginner mushroom cultivator to not use nutri-tional supplements in his first mushroom cultivation trials. Such productivity en-hancing nutrients should be added to the substrate when the beginner mushroom cultivator is already familiarized with the cultivation process.

        Caution: If you still want to use nutritional supplements than better would be to ground them and administrate them as flour, this may avoid seed sprouting in the substrate during incubation. However, when seed sprouting occurs, this results in rising the substrate temperature above 26 ºC / 78.8 F and determinate the so called 'self-ignition' of the substrate, when the mycelium is destroyed and the future mushroom culture compromised. In order to avoid this is recommended to decrease room temperature by 2-3 ºC / 35.6-37.4 F during incubation when in the substrate there are nutritional supplements added.


        Adding Other Supplements to the Substrate

        The pasteurized and sterilized substrate and inoculated with mushroom my-celium, under incubation conditions after a certain period of time begins to ferment, at this point the substrate becomes acid (the pH within the substrate  drops down). To prevent this phenomenon to the substrate is added gypsum, lime or calcium carbonate (chalk forage) at a rate of 5%. By using only one of these ingredients the substrate is maintained at neutral levels (between acid and alkaline). 
        Adding such supplements also improves the physical structure of the sub-strate by increasing porosity thereby facilitating gas exchange in the substrate.

        Note: The addition of such supplements is not mandatory in the cultivation of oyster mushrooms, but their use is recommended because of the benefits men-tioned.


        Substrate Recipes

        I recommend to the beginner mushroom cultivator in his first trials of oyster mushroom cultivation to use a simple substrate recipe: composed of a single ingredient (e.g., wheat straw -the first recipe). Once familiar with the culture of mushrooms the beginner cultivator may play with a wide range of ingredients, including nutritional supplement additions. Finally through failure and success he will understand how the whole process works and he will develop a real experience in time. 
        I will expose here some substrate recipes for oyster mushrooms cultivation from which you may choose:
        1. wheat straw 95% + gypsum 5%
        2. sawdust (beech, poplar, oak, walnut, horn-beam, maple,..) 95% + gypsum 5%
        3. straw 60% + corn-cobs 35% + lime 5%
        4. corn-cobs 90% + barley grain 7% + gypsum 3%
        5. soybean stalks 60% + corn-cobs 36% + gypsum 4%.

        Preparing the Compost 

        The first step in compost making is to select a substrate or a compost formula. As a beginner for your first mushroom cultivation trial you should chose the following formula: wheat straw 95% + gypsum 5%.



        Next the material has to be chopped into pieces (if possible). In principle for a 100kg/220 lbs of substrate you will need about 30-60 kg/66-132 lbs of dry material. The material is going to be soaked into water therefore its final weight will be around 100kg/220 lbs. 



        Note: Weighting the material is not mandatory only if you want to know ex-actly the substrate quantity that you are going to process. Usually this is a neces-sary step when you estimate the overall mushroom production. 


        MUSHROOMES CLUB UPDATES IN YOUR INBOX
        FOLLOW ME